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Myanmar, Burma

Exploring the new Rough Guide to Myanmar (Burma), Jo James found the Tanintharyi Division - a blessed area of the land that has recently opened up to travelers. San Hlan is a few lines of cabins with hairy rooftops of palms running to the transparent waters.

I' ve just been outside the city of Dawei in Myanmar's south Tanintharyi Division to explore the new Rough Guide to Myanmar. Tanintharyi was a rather intricate place until recently. Travelers from abroad were only allowed to fly in and out of the three capitals (Dawei, Myeik and Kawthoung), and daily excursions to places like San Hlan were not possible without a burst of Yangon or Naypyidaw permissions.

Enticing rumors about the Myeik Archipelago Isles came from the visitor who had made it this far - along with James Bond like stories about army stations on the Isles, pals owning cronies, and semi-aquatic marine troops - but there was little information about the land behind them. The Myeik Archipelago is the major attraction of Tanintharyi, while the coast around Dawei is the surprising one.

Fishermen's communities swash to the beautiful clear waters of San Hlan and elsewhere, a lonely gold Stupa looks over the Andaman Sea at Shin Maw, and gravel roads take you to beautiful sandy beaches everywhere. A thirty-minute car ride from Dawei, Maungmagan is the only place on the shore that is even far away ready for the visitor, with a "government resort" and the lovely Coconut Guesthouse near its deep sandy sands.

It is the most comfortable starting point to explore the southern shores of Maungmagan. When I was in San Hlan, the fisherfolk were telling tales of mystical business people who were already engaged in purchasing parts of the coast for a starvation wage in anticipation of a real estate booming area. Myanmar's administration also has big projects for Dawei, with a huge deepwater harbor for the ludicrously long Nabule Beach.

A lonely flagstaff with the Myanmar banner was standing in the breeze where the approach was. People gathered on the sand to slide the lametta and Buddha statues into the sea to keep their rafts safe for another year.

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