Candacraig Burma

Burma Candacraig

Find Raj spirits in Burma Candacraig, a 1906 building similar to an old British farmhouse with verandas, pediments and decorated bars of ice cream, is a welcome retreat from the non-personal, specific tourism resorts throughout northern Burma. Darker, stronger teas are drunk by waitresses in blacks and fortified whites floating in the corners of the motel canteen. Every dinner contains HP and Tabasco cooked bottle that you won't find anywhere else in Burma. Fascinated by Paul Theroux' descriptions of the city and the city in his Bazaar The Great Railway, I was decided to see if the magical is still there. It was called Maymyo, as Theroux, after the British Colonel May of the Bengali Infantry, who was stationed at the top of the city in the 1880s.

However, Burma's army juntas have now issued cards identifying the city with its pre-colonial name, Pyin U Lwin. And even the Candacraig is now formally known as the Thiri Myaing Hotel - but it is a name that is ignored by local people and tourists equally. More than a name shift is needed to get rid of the heritage of centuries of colonial domination, and this is one of the main features of this small city, which is located high up in the Shan Plains at 1,070m.

Colder weather and the green of the city are a welcome easement after the Mandalay plains are hot and dusty. I had left Theroux's preferred means of transportation, the railroad, and had engaged a rider to take me to Pyin U Lwin. As with all street trips in Burma, it's a rough, loud drive.

As the present manger said, a heater is "coming soon". High ceiling rooms with access to the balconies on the first level surrounding the property are US$24 singles and US$28 doubles. Initially constructed as a summery or stag quarter for Bombay Burmah Trading Company staff who came to see Mandalay during the hottest, driest time of the year, which made it so intolerable.

Later, I went to the city' s amazingly well-kept course. Enthusiastic by the teacher, I refused his invite to a round. The Raj heritage, about 10,000 Indians and 5,000 Gurkha population. The city' s large botanic garden, which was first laid out by Colonel May with the presence of Turkic POWs during the First World war is another great heritage from Roman times, Pyin U Lwin is a strong reference to the Burmese army rule despite its charms.

You can find the Army Military Academy, the Military Academy and the Military Clinic in the city and the gunmen everywhere. I suppose, a sequence that was also usual in Colonel May's time.

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